When Spider Kelly’s opened its doors last month, owners Nick Freshman and Nick Langman (of next door’s Clarendon Ballroom) had one goal in mind: a laid-back, dependable neighborhood bar in Clarendon where you can always come in for a burger and a beer. In that aspect, Spider Kelly’s has undoubtedly succeeded. Unlike other restaurants and bars in the area, SK promises to be open until 2 a.m. Monday through Sunday, regardless of any lulls in nightly business. To cap it off, the kitchen stays open all night – great news to Arlington locals looking to quell their pesky late-night cravings.
If you recognize the name, you probably read way too much 1920s American literature. It’s actually an allusion to the first page of Hemingway’s "The Sun Also Rises." The grand meaning behind such an obscure reference? There isn’t one. Freshman and Langman simply thought it was a cool name.
Décor: The dining room is small and cozy, accented with beige walls, black candlelit tables and minimalist art deco décor. It’s hardly the atmosphere you’d expect from a neighborhood bar – unless, of course, that neighborhood is Clarendon. Framed photographs of local graffiti line the walls, all snapped by the restaurant’s General Manager, Ben Freshman.
Food: Though inventive menu offerings like Dr. Pepper Pork Chops and a 10-oz. Coleman Organic NY Strip are enticing, the burgers are what will ultimately attract diners from throughout the Metro area to Spider Kelly’s. All burgers are created a la carte from a cornucopia of ingredient options. You start with the basics: 100% beef, chicken, a Portobello mushroom or the specialty “Spider Kelly Burger” - a half-pound beef patty infused with pork fat ( ...because sometimes a regular burger is just too healthy). Slap that baby between your choice of a Kaiser roll or toasted ciabatta and you’re ready to move on to the fixings.
If ever there was a way of expressing yourself through ground beef and cheese, this is it. Pile on as many complementary toppings as you please: grilled onions, sautéed Portobello mushrooms, lettuce, tomato, pico de gallo – you name it! With so many free toppings, it’s difficult to justify splurging for the $2 “This One Goes to Eleven” add-ons like guacamole and Maytag Dip. I love an arbitrary Spinal Tap reference as much as the next guy, but expecting people to pay an extra 25% for a dab of guac on their burger is a tad excessive.
The massively portioned sides, especially the rosemary and garlic fries and the aptly-named cardiac mac and cheese, make Spider Kelly’s an ideal setting for a 1:30 a.m. binge after a night of heavy drinking. At $6 per heaping plate, you’ll have trouble finding a better deal in the area.
Drinks: There are no beers on tap - a definite down side to the otherwise fully-stocked bar. To their credit, SK makes up for it with a decent wine list (four whites, seven reds) and a selection of twenty bottled beers, including a few hard-to-find microbrews like Dogfish Head and Anchor Steam.
Crowd: As eclectic as the neighborhood: mingling 20-somethings, early 30s young professionals and token old-timers just stopping in for a drink.
Insider Tips: Build your burger with care. Besides the obvious risk of clashing flavors (try to avoid the temptation of a guacamole, feta and pork fat medley), overly-ambitious diners are likely to conjure up a culinary monster that’ll inevitably crumble like the Roman Empire.
As a second tip, consider planning your visit around the nightly happy hour schedule (usually running from 5 p.m. to 8 p.m.). If possible, take full advantage of Sunday’s half-priced bottles of wine, Monday’s half-priced burgers or Thursday’s $2 domestic lights.
Service: Everyone loves a joint where the bartender insists on introducing himself the second you take a seat. Service is quick and attentive, and the friendly servers are sufficiently versed in the menu to help you think through your dining decisions.
Sounds: Sticking to the “local bar” motif, the music selection is feel-good and accessible. Mostly a mix of upbeat modern rock and pop. After ten on weekend nights, the volume goes up and the quiet dining room quickly transforms into a bustling lounge.
The Damage: If you come on a Monday night, you can make the most of your coin with a burger and a beer for around 11 bucks. Otherwise, burgers will set you back around $8 (plus any gourmet add-ons), entrees $10-18, and drinks $4-7. Not bad, especially when you consider the area and atmosphere.
Dress Code: Never. This is actually one of the key selling points of the bar – a “come as you are” atmosphere that welcomes everyone regardless of their threads.
Bottom Line: Though its décor gives the impression of a bourgie lounge for arthouse snobs, Spider Kelly’s is a friendly neighborhood dive at heart.
http://dc.metromix.com/restaurants/article/arlingtons-newest-watering-hole/555546/content
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